Hyaluronic acid: star ingredient or overhyped bubble?

Hyaluronic acid ( HA ) is popping up almost everywhere these days. There's a reason for that — it's great for hydrating the skin. But is it really a game-changer in skincare, or just a marketing hype? We've taken a closer look for you.

What is hyaluronic acid and why should we care?

HA is short for hyaluronic acid. This substance, which the body can produce itself, binds water in the body, and roughly half of all HA in the body is in the skin. Simply putthat, hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge for water - it maintains hydration, and thus also contributes to skin elasticity and healing. This makes the skin is softer and we feel more comfortable in it.

However, our body is constantly (and quickly) renewing HA. In an adult, about a third (~5 g of the total ~15 g) of hyaluronan is broken down and re-formed every day. This makes it one of the fastest-changing molecules in our intercellular substance. That's why it makes sense to supply the skin with hyaluronic acid from the outside - for example, in the form of a serum or cream.

How HA works in cosmetics (and why it's not an "instant filler in a bottle")

Sodium hyaluronate (the salt form of hyaluronic acid) and a range of hyaluronic acid molecular weights are among the most widely utilized ingredients:

• High molecular weight HA (HMW-HA) remains mainly on the skin surface, forming a fine film and rapidly increasing surface hydration.
• Low molecular weight (LMW-HA) penetrates deeper into the stratum corneum of the skin.

What HA can really do (and what it can't)

Can:

• Instantly hydrates and softens the skin's surface. Therefore, it is a great addition to your regular routine.
  
  
• Give the skin a feeling of “fuller” comfort (that fresh look). This is useful when you need extra care (“something more than a cream”).
  
  
• Soothe skin that's been dried out by retinoids or acids. It's not worth experimenting on irritated skin. Cut out the extra products and ingredients and stick to simple, basic products - such as those containing hyaluronic acid.

Cannot:

• Replace fillers at the dermatologist (HA in serum will not “fill” deep wrinkles).
  
  
• It won't repair a damaged skin barrier on its own — for that, you need something liek ceramides and a good cream.

Hyaluronic acid is a wonderful choice for skin hydration, which is why so many companies include it in their products. But it's not a magic eraser for wrinkles.

Dehydrated skin is dry, which is why we can see fine lines and wrinkles on it. Once you start taking proper care of your skin, these “dehydration wrinkles” can disappear. However, even hydration, led by hyaluronic acid, is short on deep wrinkles.

Thanks to its hydrating properties and the fact that it is a substance that is naturally found in our bodies, hyaluronic acid has great predispositions to be a valuable helper in any skincare routine. However, it is not effective on a number of problems and it is advisable to combine it with other beneficial substances. With regard to hydration, you can add ceramides, peptides, glycerin, etc.

How to use HA to make it really work

1) On damp skin. HA is a humectant – it attracts water, so “feed” it with a mist/toner and only then apply your serum. If you don’t use a toner/tonic, keep your face slightly damp after removing makeup and apply the HA serum immediately to clean, washed (and still damp) skin.

Caution: Do not use hyaluronic acid on dry skin and take extra care of it in a dry environment (dry air, air conditioning). HA binds water (e.g. from its surroundings, even from the air). If it has nowhere to take it from, the result may be even drier skin than you started with. Pay attention to moisturizing your skin and apply serums with HA only to damp skin. It will thank you very much!

2) “Seal” your skin with a cream. An occlusive layer is especially important in dry environments to help retain moisture in the skin.

3) Combine humectants. Don't leave all the work to hyaluronic acid - it's not a cure-all. It's good to combine it with other moisturizing ingredients (e.g. glycerin). Some studies also show that combining moisturizing ingredients in your routine leads to longer-lasting skin hydration. And that's what we want!

4) Morning and night. The American Association of Dermatologists lists HA as a recommended ingredient for dry skin. Moisturize your skin regularly every day. Use hyaluronic acid under SPF in the morning and under cream in the evening.

Tip: Heat and inappropriate pH can quickly break down HA. Do not leave hyaluronic acid products on a radiator, in a hot car or bathroom where temperature fluctuations occur (ot check the laboratory study of HA degradation for more).

Who benefits most from HA – and when to look elsewhere

HA is ideal for dry, dehydrated skin. You don't have to be afraid to use it even in routines with stronger active ingredients (e.g. retinoids, exfoliating products, etc.). In general, it is a pleasant, supportive addition to a number of routines. Due to its gentleness, it is relatively versatile and suitable for most skin types.

When to consider a supplement or alternative:

• Barrier damage, winter dryness: Ceramides + occlusion are essential for you at this point. Hyaluronic acid is a an appreciated helper, but it won't repair the barrier on its own - it's not that powerful.
  
• Volume and deep wrinkles: Volume loss can be treated invasively - with HA-injectable fillers by a dermatologist. For more mature skin and deep wrinkles, choose targeted care (e.g. an anti-aging routine).
  

Is HA "overhyped"?

Not if you know what to expect. As a hydrating tool, it works reliably and quickly (immediate increase in hydration, better skin comfort). It is if you expect miracles and big results from it or erase wrinkles like an eraser – topical HA cannot do that. For the best results, choose formulas with a mixture of molecular weights and follow the principles above in the article.